January Goal Completed: Take a Surf Lesson

Alright. So I had been putting it off for ages. We moved here in September (4 months ago!) and I just had my first surf lesson. I was terrified. A year and a half ago I had a near death experience in the water in Dominical, Costa Rica that made me fear waves in a big way. Looking back on it now, it was clearly my fault. Jim and I went swimming as the tide was going out, when there were signs everywhere warning how deadly the riptides are. Then I had the excuse that I had severely injured my chest last year and I didn’t want to reinjure it. Fear. Fear. Fear.

Jim took his first lessons with “Surfer Mike” of Tortuga Surf School in Jaco, back in May of last year. It kicked his butt, but he loved it. When we moved here, Jim quickly took some more lessons which then lead to borrowing a board and practicing, to then buying a board and all the accessories (rash guard, board shorts, board wax, etc.) and surfing most days a week. He loves it and surfs most days a week now.

When Jim’s dad came to visit, he learned from Mike. When we had friends come into town and one of them wanted to take a lesson, he learned from Mike. It’s funny because truth be told, Jim chose to take his first lesson with the Tortuga Surf School because he liked the logo (Shhh! Don’t tell him I told you that.) When he was done with his first lesson he got a sticker from them that he promptly put on his laptop. BUT I’ve got to say, when people suggest surf instructors in town Jim and I almost get offended because we wouldn’t have anyone teach us or our friends and family other than Mike. He’s just that good. His standard of teaching is far superior to others we’ve seen from the beach.

Since we’ve been in Costa Rica we’ve befriended Mike. He’s the most cheerful and easy going guy. Mike is originally from the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. He grew up helping with his family’s fishing business, then worked for a diving school, spent three years in Canada, and now has his own Surf School in Jaco. When he was young his grandfather told him that “Wa-ta” is in his blood and therefore (if he knew what was good for him) would make a living off the water. He’s doing  just that!

He’s 135 pounds of lean muscle (check out the photos). I call him He-Man sometimes. He’s ripped, which is good when you’re teaching lessons to touristas who need someone to “tow” them out to the waves. He does this by throwing them his surf board leash and letting them hold on while he paddles for both of them. He hasn’t done that for me yet, but he did maneuver my board quite a bit for me.

For months, Mike has been asking me “When you going to have a lesson Sammy?” (Where he got the privilege to call me by that name, I don’t know.) I kept telling him I wasn’t ready due to the chest injury I had last year. I did tell him I was building up my strength though, which I was by walking, swimming, yoga, and practicing push-ups. As time progressed he pointed out that I’ve lost weight (25+lbs!), wearing different clothing, and look more tico than before (referring to my current tan as I was super white). I told him that by the end of January I’d have a lesson.

Yesterday (just barely making it before the month changed) I had my first lesson. Mike was incredible. He made me feel safe, he taught me SO much, helped me catch waves (including my first one), feel excited, have fun, and make me look good. Jim was such a trooper that he watched and documented the entire two hours. (See the fun video at the bottom which he created!) Sure I wiped out, sure I inhaled a ton of salt water, but I also pushed through fear, learned a ton, and had a blast! Later in the evening and into today I’ve been super sore (mainly tired and bruised muscles and bones) but I’m looking forward to practicing my “pop-ups” and getting out there for another lesson after we get back from our short trip up to Nosara next week!

unloading

the before shot of me feeling scared

hydrating and trying to stay calm

pop-ups

mike showing me how to line up my body with the board

getting in the water

pushing up

paddling for real for the first time

up on my first try!

thrilled to catch my first wave on my own!

another!

and i'm up!

taking a break and blowing the salt water out of my nose

round two: switched to a 10.2 board from the 11.0 one

Paddling

First Good Fall

Rolling

Crushing it! (actually falling)

Sitting Watching the Swells with Mike

My Massive Wipe Out

What's With My Funny Hands?!

Got Another!

Still Riding It

Pumped to Have Ridden So Long

Pushing Up On A Big One

Crazy Back Arm

Rocking It!

And We're Done!

checking out my bruised hip

the after picture showing that i actually had a great time!

Comments

5 Responses to “January Goal Completed: Take a Surf Lesson”
  1. Congratulations, this is AWESOME! Love the pictures.

  2. joanne keller-wolf says:

    Thanks for this descriptive BLOG!!! It will allow me to pull out the photos I was for my desktop,etc. and access the video quickly.
    Knowing of your “deep” fear of the water there, you set a goal and accomplished it with amazing confidence and strength! You are beautiful riding the waves and I am blown away!! You’re a natural. Find your bliss in the waves baby!!! mom

  3. Coleen says:

    Hammy!

    You look like you had a blast! Isn’t it so much fun? Don’t your arms feel like jelly and you think you can’t paddle anymore? Do you have bruises on your hip bones? When you come out to visit, we can surf the Cape! Tell Jim what an awesome job he did documenting the great event!

    Bean*

  4. Joanne keller-wolf says:

    “Never let your mind keep you from having a GOOD TIME!” Jason Mraz. Thanks for the dynamite BLOG. Now I can put that “thumbs “up” photo on my desktop! My Dad loved it too!

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